Summertime and the painting is easy

summer-painting

What a difference a spray makes – a good paint spray, that is! Or how about a nice old-fashioned brush? Whatever the method, it’s time to scrub up for summer. The sun has well and truly got his hat on this week, meaning it’s time to give your garden a makeover for the months ahead.

Jetting off for summer

The key to any paint job is in the prep, and chances are your garden decking and fencing will need a good blast with a jet wash to get rid of moss, lichen and general dirt before you make a start. Alternatively, use a hard-bristled brush to sweep away the cobwebs, particularly in hard-to-reach corners. A thorough clean will help the paint bond with the surface, look better and last longer!

outdoor-lighting

Let us spray

Paint-spraying exterior walls, fences, sheds and decking could, until recently, be quite a haphazard affair! But thankfully there have been large strides in the technology behind spray guns, giving greater control, an even finish and, thankfully, less mess.

There are plenty of choices on the market when it comes to wood treatment, including many different finishes from light oak to deep mahogany. And colourful outdoor paint continues to be popular for sheds and fence panels in 2016 so, if you can’t quite afford that Jurassic Coast beach hut, you can always recreate the look by painting the shed sea green and sky blue!

hot-tub

Set in stone

Painting exterior walls not only freshens them up but protects against the weather, too. Remember to put safety first if painting high areas; never overstretch and make sure the ladder is securely positioned, with at least three rungs overlapping if it’s an extension ladder.

Cover drainpipes and window sills with newspapers, securing in place with masking tape, and start at the top, working your way downwards. If the walls are heavily textured, use a stippling technique to get into all the nooks and crannies and paint in the opposite direction to ensure even cover.

Set the benchmark

Image: Design-3000

So you’ve spruced up the walls and fencing, but what about the outdoor extras? Are boring benches, tired tables and scruffy seats letting your al fresco areas down? Check out our previous post on restoring garden furniture to ensure your summer is picnic perfect, and don’t forget to freshen up your front door before welcoming the guests around!

Ceiling Lights

Lighten up with a garden room

Push the boundaries between outside and in with a garden room. From quirky covered terraces to traditional extensions, orangeries or panoramic conservatories, get yourself a space that allows you fire up your imagination and flex your creative muscles. Not only will it give you some extra space, but your perfect garden room will give you a welcome haven that allows you to kick back and relax in all seasons.

If you are blessed with green fingers, creating your perfect garden hideaway can be as simple as teaming your favourite pots and plants with rustic rattan or wooden furniture and some classic outdoor wall lighting.

Outdoor Wall Lights

If you’re looking to achieve the botanical look without getting your hands dirty, then why not keep your garden room on message with a floral or printed wallpaper? Add a stylish table and chairs and depending on the purpose of your garden room, you’ve got yourself a charming and timeless area to dine or relax. Make a focal point with a single piece of furniture or lighting, but remember to keep things versatile as blinds will more than likely fade quickly in a room bathed in light. Choose furniture that works both indoors and out.

If bright and bold is more your thing, why not recreate the holiday vibe with bold bean bag style seating, bright bench cushions or silk lamp shades. Spice up the party atmosphere with some bold bunting and you’ll smile every time you walk in!

Chrome Table Lamps

Keeping your garden room cool in summer and warm in winter, is key to using it all year round. Depending on your garden room’s orientation, ventilation and blinds will be key to keeping a comfortable temperature in the summer months. Keep a tower fan or an electric storage heater tucked away in the corner to help out when you need it.

How to… install a stair runner

stair-runner

The Dash & Albert Rug Co.

The kitchen might be the heart of the home but it’s the hall that creates the first impression! If your entrance looks a little tired but you need to do your DIY on a budget, a stair runner can create the right welcome without the cost of carpeting the entire hall and landing. So here’s how to fit one!

What you need:

Air staple gun

Utility knife

Metre stick

Tape measure

Pencil

Stair rods

Stair pads

What you need to know:

The horizontal section of each stair – where you step – is called the TREAD.

The vertical section of each stair is called the RISER.

How to measure up:

To measure the length of the runner:

  • Multiply the number of treads by the depth of one tread
  • Multiply the number of risers by the depth of one riser
  • Add the two measurements together
  • Add three inches per stair
  • Add surplus to account for error

To measure the width, simply measure the width of one tread and subtract the amount of wood you would like on show either side (about four inches of stair either side is standard but it could be more on a wide staircase!).

Note that these instructions apply to straight stairs. Kite or winder (corner) stairs are a much trickier task and our advice would be to call in a professional carpet fitter.

  1. Sweep the stairs clean and remove any old nails or tacks.
  1. Lay a stair pad on each tread.
  1. Draw a straight line half an inch from the end of the runner and, using your metre stick and knife, cut the carpet to ensure a clean, straight edge.
  1. Measure the width of your stair tread with your tape measure and halve to find the centre point. Mark the centre of each tread with a pencil. Then measure the width of the stair runner and divide in half also, to find its centre.
  1. Place the runner on the top stair, leaving enough to cover the uppermost riser as well as the tread. Smooth out any air pockets and creases and, with the staple gun, tack the runner to the top of the riser, stapling every few inches along.
  1. Allow the runner to drop to the bottom of the staircase in line with each riser and tread. Loosely attach the stair rods by drilling holes in the stairs for the rod screws and loosely screwing in place.
  1. Staple the runner in place along the upper of each riser, just under the nose of the tread above. Remove the loosely screwed rod of that stair and tack the carpet again at the point where the riser meets the tread. Put the rod back in place, screwing it tightly into position.

8. At the bottom, trim any excess carpet and attach the runner along the bottom of the lowest riser.